Manufacturing

Step 1 — Let’s bring your shoes to life

The choice of materials

To find the ideal model for the season, it all starts with studying current trends: fashions, shapes, colors and materials.

The skins selected come from full grain leather to maintain the authenticity of its thickness. The color of this leather will give the shoe its charm. Leather from France is therefore not exposed to high temperatures. The skin is less brittle and will therefore be more resistant to flexion of the foot. Following this, Joseph Malinge chooses a sole which can be leather or rubber, depending on the attribute he wishes to bring to his shoes.
You then have to find a soul in the shoe through various shapes.
To attach these materials together and give life to the shoes, the last choice will be that of sewing (Blake stitched, Norwegian stitched, Goodyear stitched, Petits Points stitched).
Each model has its particularities because our shoes are carefully studied to provide strength, comfort and elegance.
Once the choices have been made for the new collection, Joseph Malinge makes numerous sketches in order to better visualize his future creations.

Step 2 — the start of manufacturing

leather patterning and cutting

The pattern creation contains all the details of the shoe.
It is a plastic replica of the shoe on which he forms his drawing:
puncture, dimensions, etc.
To cut leather, Joseph Malinge uses three techniques.

The slice cut

The cutter manually uses the knife to cut valuable leathers, which requires precision. Having his hand on each piece, he is in direct contact with the leather by touching it, stretching it and turning it. He also has better vision.

This method allows him to be attentive to defects, bad placements and to avoid future deformation of the leather.

The press cut

The cutter uses a cookie cutter to machine cut. He must pay attention to the direction of the skin to avoid bad cutting placements.

This technique is faster and makes it easier to cut thick and stiff leathers, such as leather soles.

Cutting via CAD

The computer sends a representation of the pattern via the video projector, directly to the skin. The pieces of leather are then cut by a knife blade. The tip and the pencil draw the marks which will be used by the stitcher. A drill bit can also be used to perforate. These tools perfectly reproduce the movements of the cutter. Computer Aided Design simplifies parameter changes related to design and technical needs. This method thus avoids additional development costs.

Step 3 — Assemble the pieces

preparation of the stem and stitching

Trimming is Joseph Malinge's use of a machine equipped with a bell knife.
The leather must be beveled in order to obtain an excellent assembly of the different pieces.

Once the trimming is done, the stitching allows the pieces of leather to be assembled together .
Meticulous work that allows the shoe to begin to take shape.

To hold this rod during assembly, Joseph Malinge must drill into the leather using the drill bit.
The holes made with the punch then allow the laces to be passed through to correctly close the uppers.

Step 4 — Shaping the shoe

Fitting the shoes

Step 5 — Sew the welt for sturdy shoes

Sewing shoes

Goodyear / Norwegian / Blake / Small dots

sewn shoes

Norwegian

blake

goodyear

Small dots

The Norwegian stitched leather welt uses the chain stitch technique. This involves assembling the leather welt, the upper and the wall with a single thread. This method makes the seam more elastic in order to follow the flexion of the foot.
Norwegian stitching is reserved for more opulent and all-terrain resistant shoes.

Well known for giving elegance to shoes, Blake stitching consists of connecting the upper, the sole and the insole with 2 strong threads.
The stem is folded below the first.
Then, Joseph Malinge adds a leather reinforcement and a wooden shank to level the shoe. We glue the sole to provide discretion and therefore finesse to the shoe.
Finally, the shoe is sewn from the inside (inner insole side) to the outside (sole side).

For a Goodyear assembly, Joseph Malinge begins by engraving or placing a canvas wall (leather raised to a height of 5 mm) under the leather base.
This wall is used to stitch the upper and the welt (strip of leather) in order to assemble the insole, the sole and the upper together. This method makes resoling easier and also allows your shoes to be almost waterproof.
Goodyear welted shoes have impressive longevity. They adapt to your feet and provide you with unparalleled comfort.

Petits Points stitched shoes are made using double stitching. The method consists of tying the lower thread and the upper thread together.
The 2 threads receive a slightly sticky treatment to prevent them from slipping and unraveling. This exterior seam keeps the leather in place with the sole.
Thanks to small stitch sewing, your shoes benefit from impressive resistance over time.

Step 6 — Hand finishing for a perfect shoe

Shoe finishing

joseph malinge

100% French manufacturing

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